1/150hp 3000RPM CW 3.3" Diameter 115 Volts (Coleman) Fasco # D408

!±8± 1/150hp 3000RPM CW 3.3" Diameter 115 Volts (Coleman) Fasco # D408

Rate : | Price : $70.33 | Post Date : Dec 29, 2011 20:57:36
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Cross Reference Information: 7995-316, 7121-5906

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Hydronic Vs Forced Air Heating and Cooling

!±8± Hydronic Vs Forced Air Heating and Cooling

Hydronic, or hot water, heating has been standard for years in many parts of the U.S. It is seeing a surge in popularity at present, mainly because of the increasing use of radiant floor heating, which is known for providing even, comfortable heat. Yet contrary to popular belief, not every home in the free world needs hydronic heat to achieve this level of comfort.

Apples to Oranges

Hydronic heat is sometimes touted as more comfortable than forced-air heat. But since the typical hydronic system is significantly more expensive than the typical hot-air system, especially if cooling is included, this is an apples-to-oranges comparison. Customers willing to invest in a quality hot-air system, rather than a bare-bones package at the lowest price, will find that forced hot air can be as comfortable as hydronic heating. Unfortunately, if the heating system is hot water and the home owner doesn't spend the extra up front to cool their home, their finished home may be still too expensive to add the cooling system later and probably imposable to even install without doing even more expensive and inconvenient remodeling to accommodate such an install. Or the homeowner may have to add a window air conditioner instead to each of the rooms in the home. Another system maybe a ductless system that is not as efficient as the central split system design on a standard forced air install.

The least expensive forced-air system usually includes a single-stage furnace with a single-speed blower motor. The entire house is ducted as a single zone, and therefore has just one thermostat. If the system is sized by a contractor who uses a rule-of-thumb formula to estimate heat loss and heat gain, the homeowner can end up paying higher-energy bills for a noisier, less efficient system that provides uneven temperatures from room to room.

A quality forced-air system would probably include a Coleman two-stage furnace with a variable-speed blower motor.

The house would be separated into several zones, I recommend Arzel Zoning Systems, with separate thermostats, and the air would be distributed through well-sealed, insulated ducts. In many cases, such an upgraded hot-air system will still cost less than a hydronic system.

Hydronic Vs Forced Air Heating and Cooling

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Pressure Washer Repair

!±8± Pressure Washer Repair

Pressure washers, or power washers are used for cleaning dirt, stubborn stains, grime and dust from almost all kinds of surfaces including glass, wood, concrete, fiber and steel via high pressure water flow.

Pressure washers have a lot of parts for effective functioning. The main parts in a pressure washer are the electric or gasoline-powered engine attached to a pump. This pump compresses the water and builds up pressure. The hose has a trigger that has the option of spraying the water either in short bursts or as a continuous spray. The power of the washer depends on the strength of the pump. The nozzle or the tip is also a very important component. This tip can be adjusted at different angels for adjusting the pressure of the water. The smallest angle generates the highest pressure. Larger angles up to 40 degrees are for generating sprays covering larger surface area. Pressure washers also contain a detergent injector that helps to steadily mix the detergent with the water. Other main parts in a pressure washer are the hose, hose reels, valves, heating and cooling components and other plumbing and electrical fittings.

In order to function properly, it is important that all parts are in good working condition. Pressure washers have to be serviced regularly because of the accumulation of dust and grime where they are used. Maintenance involves cleaning the nozzle, which gets clogged with dirt, causing excessive pressure to develop, distorting the spray pattern. Other parts may also develop problems and may have to be replaced from time to time. It is better to consult a hardware technician about pressure washer repair. You can also do a few small repairs and replacements by getting parts from a hardware store. The Internet is a good source of information as well as for buying pressure washer parts. There are several sites that provide useful information about pressure washer repair.

Pressure Washer Repair

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How to Clean a Furnace Blower

!±8± How to Clean a Furnace Blower

Keeping the blower assembly on your furnace clean helps improve performance and efficiency by allowing the air to flow unobstructed. The process requires a number of steps, and you might want to call in a professional to do the job. If you choose to do it yourself, here's the procedure.

First, turn off the power to the furnace. This should be done at the fuse or breaker box. Then turn off the furnace and fan switches inside the unit. Also switch your thermostat off.

Second, take the blower assembly out of the furnace. To do this, you have to disconnect the fan motor wiring harness connector. Make sure you make your own schematic showing how the wires run before you perform the disconnection.

To remove the assembly, take out the screws; then slide it out. Make sure you don't touch the terminals of the capacitor, which is probably connected to the side of the blower assembly. There may be some refrigerant lines in this area. Don't bend them so they crimp.

Third, if the capacitor is attached to the blower housing, discharge it and take it out. If you can't find the capacitor, it probably isn't required on your unit or is located somewhere else in the furnace, so you can move on to the next step.

If you do find the capacitor on the side of the housing, remove the wires with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Make sure they have an insulated grip to prevent electrical shock. Also, do not touch the terminals.

You can discharge the capacitor using a resistor-type jumper. If you don't know how to use a jumper, call a professional. When the capacitor is discharged, go ahead and remove it.

Fourth, take the motor and blower wheel out of the housing. Mark the spot where the hub sits on the fan shaft because this piece must be replaced in exactly the same spot.

To remove the wheel, loosen the setscrew. Then turn the housing over and remove the motor bracket bolts. Turn the housing back over and, with a piece of two-by-four, softly knock the motor and shaft out of the wheel. Also remove the deflector portion of the housing by removing the screws.

Finally, clean the blower wheel and the fan motor. It's easiest to use a spray wand at the car wash to clean the wheel, but don't direct the water at the wheel at full pressure to avoid bending the fan's fins. You can clean the motor with a soft brush (no water).

Keeping your furnace blower assembly clean can mean lower energy bills and a more comfortable home.

How to Clean a Furnace Blower

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RV Furnaces

!±8± RV Furnaces

Importance of Routine Maintenance

Your rv furnace may be the most temperamental appliance in your rv. The ignition system can perform flawlessly and then out of the blue it can totally fail. It can run quiet and purr like a well oiled machine and then start screeching and vibrating as though it has been possessed and wants "out" of your rv. Challenges for any RV, motor home, or fifth wheel owner, and even greater challenge for the RV technician.

The solution? Simple periodic inspection of your rv furnace will go a long way in averting future problems. Just because your rv furnace runs and blows, warm air does not mean some attention may be in order. The older the rv or motor home is routine maintenance only becomes more important and if it is more than five years old your safety depends on it.

Warm beer from a poor cooling refrigerator will not kill you (its really true!) but an inadequately maintained furnace could. While there are, numerous safety features built into recreational vehicle furnaces their longevity and operating efficiency rest squarely on you, the RV owner.

Rv furnaces are referred to as forced draft furnaces and are different than the forced air furnaces in our homes in that the rv furnace utilizes a separate combustion air blower which provides a predetermined volume of air to the burner chamber to achieve ignition of the main burner. Once lit the flame is sustained by air supplied by the blower. Adequate return air then is crucial in order for the furnace to operate at proper temperature.

The blowers are a squirrel cage design.

The main furnace blower sits behind the blower shroud on which the furnace data plate is attached. (The white square at upper left portion of photo) The furnace motor is also housed here. Slightly to the right is a narrow black vertical metal separator and to the right of it is a galvanized vertical metal strip. The combustion air blower (about l 1/2" wide) is housed directly behind this.

The motor has a shaft running through the center of it with the shaft on the left side driving the main furnace blower and the shaft on the right side driving the combustion blower. Two blowers- one motor. The cylinder shaped mechanism to the right of combustion blower is the outside furnace vent. This is the design of late model forced draft furnace.

Overheating is ultimately controlled by the limit switch, which will open and shut the furnace down when overheated but the best remedy is to avert the possibility of overheating with a simple routine inspection of the furnace. Besides, a hot running furnace will only place additional stress on the combustion chamber and burner and a cracked combustion chamber can leak lethal combustion gases into the coach rather than the outside where it belongs.

Furnace Inspection Checkpoints:

#1. Check outside vents for soot

Soot is a byproduct of improper combustion, which means you have a problem. Carbon monoxide is the other byproduct of improper combustion so a furnace exhibiting soot at the outside vent should be inspected and repaired BEFORE being operated again.

#2. Check return air vents (inside coach at the furnace)

Return air vents should be free of dust and lint and should NEVER be obstructed. Remove the return air vent and inspect the case of the furnace to be sure it is clean and free of obstructions. If there is any dust on the furnace, which cannot be easily removed with a vacuum, or air indicates, it has been there for a considerable length of time and a cleaning of the entire furnace is in order. Why? Because this dust will be everywhere including the inside of the furnace. Such dust can affect electrical switches, the furnace blower, and the furnace blower motor. Eventually a dirty motor and blower will slow down and the furnace will loose efficiency and if the blower slows down enough the furnace will not operate. (Another safety feature incorporated with the sail switch)

#3 Inspect heat ducts at the furnace

Heat ducts should be inspected at the furnace first to insure they are properly secured to the furnace AND that they are not leaking. Also, check the condition of the ducting. If it is stiff and brittle, it will be prone to cracking and subsequently leaking resulting in additional operating inefficiencies of your furnace. Such ducting should be replaced.

Conclusion:

Your rv furnace is the one area in which one should not skimp. Your comfort and safety far outweigh any reasons to shortcut here and safety in and of it should mandate giving your furnace the attention it requires.

RV Furnaces

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